Kurama-dera｜鞍馬寺

One thing you will notice about Kurama is that you can find many tengu in the area. Tengu are long-nosed legendary creatures found in Japanese folk stories that represented to ancient people the mysterious power of mountains. There is a lot of tengu imagery visible around Kurama because legend states that they once lived in the area. It is also mentioned in the tales of historical figure Minamoto no Yoshitsune that he endured harsh training with Sōjōbō, the lord of the tengu. You can find a large statue of a tengu’s face at Kurama Station, and you can also take this creature home by buying some tengu-shaped omikuji at Yuki Shrine. 

Tigers are considered to be messengers of the Buddhist divinity Bishamonten, one of the Four Heavenly Kings and the protector of northern Kyoto. According to legend, Bishamonten came to Kurama with a tiger in the Hour of the Tiger, on the Day of the Tiger, within the Month of the Tiger according to the Chinese lunar calendar. Called “the tigers of A-Un”, the concept of A-Un is one that encapsulates all of life from its beginning to its end, represented by the first and last sounds of the Sanskrit alphabet.  As you make your way through Kurama, you will notice a pair of tiger statues standing tall and proud on either side of the main hall, on the temple’s votive tablets, and in other imagery.   

Yuki Shrine was founded in 940 and, despite being a small shrine, it is full of charm. Though separate from Kurama-dera, it is located on the way up the mountain to the temple. On the grounds is a towering Japanese cedar tree which is about 800 years old and 53 meters high. It is believed that if you pray to the tree with all your heart, your wish will come true. At Yuki Shrine you will also find some lion dogs carved from stone.

Guardian pairs of lion dogs are common at shrines, but one of these dogs is depicted holding its child, a form rarely seen in other locations. This type of statue is believed to be a symbol for healthy babies. Tengu imagery can also be found in the form of omikuji, with Yuki Shrine selling keychains in the shape of a tengu’s head that contains a fortune. 

The top of Mt. Kurama is known as a very powerful spiritual spot. In front of the main hall you will see a star symbol on the ground called the Kongoshō. With the Sonten trinity represented by the triangle, the six points radiating outward are said to stand for the six ways in which we sense and interact with the world around us as detailed in the Lotus Sutra: the eyes, ears, nose, mouth, body, and heart.  It is believed that if you stand on the triangle stone in the center of the innermost star and face the main hall you will be able to feel a surge of energy, becoming able to realize the innate power held within you.

On the hiking trail, the sandō path between the temple and Kibune Village, you will find another spiritual spot called the Maō-den. The Maō Hall is dedicated to Maōson (also referred to as Gohōmaōson), a deity said to have descended to Earth from Venus some six million years ago.

Although climbing Kurama on foot is a great experience on its own, if you want to sit down and enjoy the scenery the Mount Kurama Cable Railway is a great alternative.  The car operating on this funicular line, the Ushiwakamaru, is named for the childhood moniker of the great general Minamoto no Yoshitsune, who was raised on this mountain.  The cable car station is located just inside the temple's sanmon gate, in the Fumyōden building, and a one way ticket only costs 200 yen (100 yen for children up to junior high school age).  The ticket, which is in the shape of a flower petal, also comes in different colors and has a message written across it.  The trip saves you a trek, but it's only a few minutes long, so make sure you don’t miss out on your photo opportunity!

One of the noteworthy points about Kurama Temple is that there is a sandō (sacred path to a shrine/temple) that connects the mountain to the beautiful Kibune, a mountain village famous for its shrine and its unique riverside dining experience. 

The hike from the bottom of Kurama Temple takes about an hour and a half, but if you want to stop, enjoy the scenery and take a few snaps along the way, it might last you a good two hours or more. The mountain trail has a mysterious atmosphere with its giant Japanese cedars, exposed tree roots, wild animals, interestingly-shaped wisteria trees and small shrines along the way.  Kurama-dera wants those who visit to take the time to appreciate the nature heaven has granted us, and encourages people to ponder their wishes and place in the world along this path through the mountains.